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Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Clutch &
Suspension, Etc.
14x6 Campagnolo wheels from 83-84 Spider (required wheel spacers
and longer studs to mount)
Falken Azenis tires, 195-60x14. Very sticky. Great tires on this car
Front Brakes: Brembo aluminum calipers from a Milano, vented rotors on custom
hats from Tom Sahines
Rear Brakes: Later model Spider
Tilton proportioning valve located under back seat, passenger side, so it can be
reached from driver's seat
New brake booster, new master cylinder (Girling fluid bottles from Dave Bean
Engineering)
1969 floor-mounted pedal box and hydraulic clutch which we needed for the
late model tranny.
Plumbing the thing was a pain!!! A friend making the same
engine-tranny swap used
an adapter from
Alfaholics, and avoided having to change the pedal box and add the hydraulic clutch.
The manual
clutch was perfect for 20 years; this mod was only because I didn't know about the Alfaholics cure,
so to speak
Alfaholics "fast road suspension kit" (www.alfaholics.com). Consists of new
springs, fatter front sway far,
polyurethane bushings. Used with the Koni orange shocks already on
the car
New upper A-arms, adjustable (rest of suspension was rebuilt previously)
Headlights: Hella lenses with 80/100 watt bulbs
Engine Compartment
Optima battery
Moroso vapor canister with braided line and AN fittings
Fuse block moved into interior, under dash
Moved horns and alarm siren up under fenders, behind the mud guards
Recored radiator
Electric, thermostatically operated fan, from Centerline
New alternator from a Milano, with built-in regulator (switched to an alternator
20 years ago)
New late model starter (www.international-auto.com)
Holley fuel pressure regulator (I have a good electric fuel pump, but wanted an
adjustable regulator)
2000cc Engine
Bottom end new, built by Steve Smith
Reciprocating parts balanced by Joel and Brent Kaeding, the World of Outlaws
sprint car champs
(This may explain why my car goes fast, but only in circles)
Borgo 10.4:1 pistons with Hastings rings. We originally used Deves rings,
but switched in January
of 2004, because the
Deves rings never seated properly. This was probably because
we had trouble running the engine at
first, due to the sticking carb linkage that made it go full throttle on start
up. The second time around, I drove the car
immediately on start-up, and broke it in as per the
instructions on the Hastings website:
www.hastingsmfg.com
New water pump
Crankshaft pulley from my original 1600 engine (smaller than a 2 liter's
pulley; slows
down the alternator)
This engine loves to rev and routinely gets shifted at
6500-7000 rpm ... and sometimes a little more
Crank drilled, tapped and plugged with allen screws
High performance oil pump
Aluminum flywheel (try these guys:
www.fidanza.com )
Cylinder head by Rich Goodrich (www.goodrichdist.com)
Port-matched and polished - almost too pretty to put on the
car
45mm intake valves with multi-angle valve seats (runs on
unleaded premium)
High performance valve springs
Jon Norman Megacycle 11mm cams (www.alfapartscatalog.com)
New 45 DCOE 152 Webers (www.alfaholics.com)
ITG low restriction air filter, part JC50/S/75 (www.coastfab.com)
Custom-made stainless steel mounting plate for air filter (Replaces Pipercross setup that was poorly made)
TWM Induction rolled aluminum ram pipes (www.twminduction.com)
Wrinkle-finish valve cover with polished Alfa logo (Good for
5 horsepower!)
Nickel-plated mounting hardware (2 HP, dyno tested)
Aluminum motor mount stiffeners and new motor mounts
Centerline ID405 electronic ignition (www.centerlinealfa.com) The Magneti Marelli Plex 201 finally wore out
after 20 years of service.
Tri-y equal-length headers (These did not fit when they came and getting the
supplier to fix them ... or even respond in a civil
way ... proved to be a challenge, hence his name is not
listed here.
Headers are mated to 2.25" stainless system, using the center and rear Magnaflow
mufflers, as recommended
by Peter Nitoglia, a Magnaflow VP who races a GTV. They
are Parts #14325 and #14415.
(www.magnaflow.com) The car sounds great under acceleration, but it's a bit
louder than when the car had cast iron headers,
stock front expansion chamber and middle muffler, with no
rear muffler.
The headers are bolted on with special nuts from Coast Fabrication. These M8 x 1.0 elliptically deformed locknuts, part no.
8100PH135M, have a 10mm head and 13.6mm base, allowing
the use of sockets for installation
Transmission
1984 transmission built by Tom Sahines (He specifies only
Shell Spirax 80W-90)
All gears lightened (Fast, buttery smooth shift ... and I no longer have to make
the Alfa pause between gears)
New rubber around the shift lever -- Don't get cheap here. Old boots get hard
and can cause the
shift lever to pop out of gear. Ask me how I know
New SACHS clutch, T/O bearing and pressure plate
New flex joint
Aluminum flex joint covers protect driver from exploding donut while playing
Fangio meets Nuvolari
Bought an aluminum rear transmission bushing from the header guy, but others
warned it would be
too harsh for street use, so it holds down a spot in my cabinet
full of Alfa spares
Tune-Up Specs
Plugs -- NGK B7ES gapped to .030.
Used .025 with original breaker-point ignition
Timing -- 34-35 degrees max advance at 4600 rpm
Weber Settings
Chokes -- 36
Idle -- 50f9
Accel pump jet -- 40
Main -- 145
Air corrector -- 180
Emulsion -- f16

We dyno'd the new engine too quickly the first time around. It had been
driven less than 1000 miles and was using a lot of oil. I should have
waited to find out why it was using oil, but got overly anxious, so scheduled
time at Mustang Ranch, in Santa Clara.
We were on a chassis dyno, running pump gas, with mufflers and air filter in
place. Once the testing was underway -- sort of -- the dyno tech had us
retard the ignition severely because he kept hearing pinging. Turned out
the old faithful Marelli electronic ignition system had finally worn out. It was
the only thing on the engine that wasn't new, so naturally it failed.
To compound our woes, the dyno's computer
kept shutting down on its own. As a result, we only got one good run
before giving up. That run yielded 127 rear
wheel horsepower, or about 151 flywheel horsepower. Not too good given the
potential, but understandable given the
circumstances. Weeks later, when we pulled the engine to replace the still
new rings, we
found that the front carb was not opening
completely at full throttle. A new linkage piece had deformed and was
slipping on the shaft.
So much for quality manufacturing.
It will be interesting to see what the dyno says with the cylinders burning gas
instead of oil and gas, with proper spark, and
full throttle on the front two cylinders. When I have a new dyno chart to
compare with the old one, I'll post both.
As of January 2007 the re-ringed engine has about 3000 miles on it, burns
no oil, idles nicely at 900 rpm, and feels very strong.
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